During my trip to Washington State, I had the opportunity to visit Syncline Winery, a small family winery in the Columbia Gorge AVA. Founded around 25 years ago, the estate is well known for its biodynamic farming, small-scale production and focus on expressing the local terroir.
A unique place to grow grapes
The Columbia Gorge AVA is very different from many other wine regions in Washington.
Wind is one of the biggest influences here. The Columbia River acts like a natural tunnel, bringing cool winds from the Pacific through the valley. The large base of Mount Adams volcano also helps push weather systems towards Oregon. Together, they cool the vineyards, helping the grapes keep their freshness and acidity.
The soils are also unusual. They are made from basalt created by volcanic eruptions around three million years ago and later shaped by huge floods. These shallow, rocky soils are naturally poor in nutrients, forcing the vines to work harder and produce concentrated fruit.
Vintage conditions change a lot from year to year. In 2022, spring was unusually cold and wet, with snow even falling in May before a warm autumn saved the vintage. By contrast, 2023 was warmer and more typical. Wildfires are also an important challenge in the region.
Biodynamic farming
Syncline farms around 60 acres of land, including about 22 acres of vineyards. Everything is harvested by hand and fermented with only wild yeasts.
The estate only uses drip irrigation during the driest months of August and September. Water is becoming an important issue, so the winery is taking part in a research project with a university. Small holes are dug close to the vine roots so irrigation water reaches the roots directly, reducing water loss.
Because phylloxera has affected the region in the past, all vines are grafted onto resistant rootstocks.
A wide range of grape varieties
Syncline grows an impressive mix of grape varieties.
Rhône grapes such as syrah, grenache, mourvèdre and viognier are planted alongside gamay, grüner veltliner and cabernet franc.
One of the estate's most unusual grapes is mondeuse, a variety from Savoie in eastern France. The owner would like to plant even more Savoie varieties, such as jacquère, although he believes consumers first need to become more familiar with them.
The winery also produces an interesting Picpoul. The grapes come from a high-altitude vineyard elsewhere in Washington and are fermented with whole bunches in concrete tanks, creating a fresh yet textured style.
Winemaking
The philosophy at Syncline is simple: let the vineyard speak.
Each grape variety is fermented separately before blending. Concrete tanks are widely used because they help preserve freshness, while oak is generally kept to a minimum. Even the winery building is made from concrete to help keep naturally cool temperatures.
The estate also produces a very small amount of traditional method sparkling wine made from chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier.
Wines that stood out
Several wines were particularly memorable during the tasting.
The 2022 Cinsault was full of red cherry, strawberry, herbs and spice. Fermented in concrete with no oak ageing, it was bright, fresh and incredibly drinkable.
The 2022 Grenache-Carignan combined smooth tannins with ripe fruit and freshness.
The 2022 Gamay, made with whole-cluster fermentation, showed black cherry, violet, spice and earthy notes with lively acidity.
The 2021 Mourvèdre had black fruit, liquorice and subtle vanilla from partial French oak ageing, while still keeping good freshness.
Finally, the 2021 Syrah, made from vines around 50 years old and aged in neutral French oak barrels, was elegant and balanced, with black fruit, pepper and violet aromas.
A winery focused on quality
Syncline remains a small producer and sells much of its wine directly through its wine club, which has around 2 000 members. Japan is also an important export market.
Like many small wineries in the United States, Syncline has seen direct-to-consumer sales become more difficult as younger generations drink less wine and rising living costs affect spending.
Why visit Syncline Winery?
Syncline Winery is a great example of the diversity of Washington wines. The combination of biodynamic farming, careful winemaking and a fascinating terroir produces wines with freshness, balance and a real sense of place.
If you visit the Columbia Gorge AVA, it is a winery that deserves a place on your itinerary!
